Vanished Routes

Vanished RoutesEpisodesThe Hippie Trail

EP 001 · 10 MIN · LONDON TO KATHMANDU · 1957 TO 1979

The Hippie Trail: London to Kathmandu, 1957–1979

Episode 001 poster: 1970 hippie bus against a 1979 closed border Premieres Oct 3

What was the Hippie Trail?

For twenty years, a single overland route connected London to Kathmandu: roughly 12,000 miles by painted coach, hitchhiked ride, and cheap local train, through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and India. Travelers called it the Hippie Trail, and from around 1957 it carried thousands of young people east with no fixed return date, on a budget that only worked if you kept it small.

How people traveled it

Companies including Penn Overland, Swagman Tours and the Indiaman Bus Company ran the route on scheduled coaches nicknamed the Magic Bus. Riders who couldn't afford a seat pieced the journey together themselves, trading rides, maps and warnings along the way. Istanbul's Pudding Shop, with its bulletin board of "riders wanted" notes, and Kabul's Sigi's café on Chicken Street became the trail's unofficial meeting points. The road funneled travelers through the Khyber Pass into the subcontinent, and for most, it ended in Kathmandu, on a street that came to be nicknamed Freak Street.

The trail also produced its own literature. In 1972, Tony and Maureen Wheeler spent nine months traveling the route and arrived in Sydney with 27 cents between them. Their notes became a 94-page guide, Across Asia on the Cheap, which sold 1,500 copies in its first week and grew into Lonely Planet.

Why it ended in 1979

The Hippie Trail didn't fade out. It was cut in two events within months of each other. Early in 1979, the Iranian Revolution closed the overland route through Iran to Western travelers. By the end of that year, the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan turned the trail's middle country into a war zone. Civil war in Lebanon and tension in Kashmir closed the alternate branches soon after. There was no final scheduled run — the road that carried thousands of travelers a year simply stopped working.

What's there today

Parts of the route became passable again from the mid-2000s, but ongoing conflict, difficult visas and closed borders still make the full London-to-Kathmandu overland journey next to impossible. What survives is the trail's legacy: Freak Street still carries its name in Kathmandu, and Lonely Planet, the guidebook company the trail produced, still shapes how backpackers travel today.

Sources

NEXT DEPARTURE · EP 002 · OCT 07The Orient Express: the legend's final run →